- Lodging at the BrewDog Aberdeen Kennels
- Laundry and Blog Writing
- Eats and Drinks at Fierce Taproom & Bistro 52
- A visit to St. Andrews
So, this’ll be a quick one.
For anyone who’s traveled for extended lengths of time – and as lightly luggaged as possible – you know well the challenges of keeping up with the laundry. You may recall that we’d washed and dried two loads at the way cool laundromat in Keswick, but then had no viable options in Glasgow (the industrial-chic Moxy provided only an ironing room – yeah, what?!) or Inverness (Storm Floris!) or Aberlour (two long blocks of minimal services), making a date with a washer and dryer priority number one for Aberdeen.
After just over an hour from leaving Huntly Castle, we pulled up in front of the BrewDog Aberdeen Kennels, unloaded Nancy and our bags at the kerb, and I parked around back at a public garage. If you drink craft beer – or live in Ohio – you may have heard of BrewDog. They’re a 20-year old Scottish beer producer with more than 100 pubs internationally, and a brewery just outside of Columbus, Ohio. We discovered them via their 3-season TV show in the mid-20-teens in which the two founders traveled the world, crafting beer from unique local ingredients. Fun show, if you can find it.
The “kennels” are a block of six apartments co-opted within the Aberdeen Athenaeum Apartments, an aparthotel adjacent to the BrewDog Aberdeen Castlegate restaurant and pub. Cool rooms with funky objet d’arte, such as the retro record player and acoustic guitar in our living room. Bins of free candy in the hallway, a mini-fridge of not-free beer in our shower. The YouTube video below provides a sense of things.
Oh, and hidden behind one kitchen cabinet door, Nancy found the washing machine. But that came later.
As was our norm, we briefly settled in, then regarbed into our exploration togs, and hit the sidewalk. Our loop brought us first to the Ancient Mercat Cross (traditional identifier of a town’s market square). Interesting story there, the cross originally built in 1686 and situated nearby, then relocated to Castlegate in 1842. More than you’d ever want to know is right here.
We then walked north on Broad Street and past the striking Marischal College, no longer used for education, but instead as the headquarters of Aberdeen City Council and Police Department. The only granite building in the world larger than Its majestic main structure, pictured below, is Spain’s renowned El Escorial, an hour north of Madrid. And one of the better statues we’d encountered on our travels of the Scottish nobleman and king, Robert the Bruce. (Portrayed exceptionally well by Chris Pine recently in the 2018 movie, the Outlaw King.)
Our 3-mile loop brought us north along its namesake street to King’s College, Aberdeen’s first university, officially opening in 1509, and now a part of the University of Aberdeen. We walked along Spital and Gallowgate Roads for our return, then eyeballed a few potential dinner spots, not realizing in advance they were both housed in converted Gothic churches built in the 1830’s and 40’s. We later learned there are a dozen such bars neé churches in Greater Aberdeen, licensed such that they required the preservation of architectural design and significant artifacts, such as timber cladding, stained glass, and stonework. We looked at Triplekirks and Slains, but others include Soul, Priory, and the Trinity Parish Church, built in 1794 and reborn the last century in several incarnations: electrical appliance showroom, banana storage warehouse, restaurant/art gallery (Musa), public house, and most recently as the bars Hop & Anchor and The Exchange Bar & Kitchen (recently closed).
Most wild to us was the recognition that even the youngest of these church bars was constructed before the oldest building in all of our hometown Seattle.
And in a week we’d be in ancient Rome.
We stopped by the lobby of BrewDog and decided to dine early there, then retire upstairs for the night. Pub grub, not worth any details. And after showers, Nancy laundered while I typed out a blog post.
We’d learned from our vacation rental bookings thus far that the vast majority of properties do not provide a clothes dryer. Especially in Europe. Washing machine, sure. Dryer, not so much. Or if one was provided it was incorporated into a single wash/dry unit, and if someone ever figures out how to use those things without shrinking or scorching your wardrobe, send us a note.
Instead, we strung out our newly-washeds old school, utilizing hangers, clothes racks, our handiest of travel gizmos, a Sea to Summit Lite Line Camping and Travel Clothesline. 1.3 ounces, 11.5 feet, attachable most anywhere, and strong enough to hold everything we threw at it.
Laundry and writing continued the next morning, interrupted by late coffee and a shared acai bowl and croissant down the road at a bustling Black Sheep Coffee. Good eats and satisfying coffee. We were working on a couple of posts encompassing our last two days in Ireland (Dublin) and our three days in England traveling from London to Glasgow. That meant wading through 500+ photos between our two iPhones, and researching several highlighted experiences. Background and such. That meant couch time. Or propped up in bed, laptops humming. Listening to clothes dry.
Late afternoon we’d had just about enough of that, thank you very much. So, we popped next door to Fierce Bar for a pre-dinner quencher. It’s actually on the backside of BrewDog, sharing a wall, and it’s a far better drinkery, in our opinion. Extrapersonable bartender, a dozen or so local folks filling the tables, and a tap list of 20 of their own creations, running the gamut of styles. Decisions, decisions.
Late afternoon we’d had just about enough of that, thank you very much. So, we popped next door to Fierce Bar for a pre-dinner quencher. It’s actually on the backside of BrewDog, sharing a wall, and it’s a far better drinkery, in our opinion. Extrapersonable bartender,a dozen or so local folks filling the tables, and a tap list of 20 of their own creations, running the gamut of styles. Decisions, decisions.
We shared a flight, tender’s choice: a lager, an IPA, and two stouts, one a dry Irish (think Guinness) and the other a pastry stout collaboration with an Edinburgh maker, this one with marshmallows and chocolate. Too sweet, but still quite delicious. Would’ve been awesome with a few Walker’s shortbread teacakes.
Destinationless, we then wandered the sideroads and came across a promising tapas bar called Cafe 52. Narrow and high-ceilinged with an eclectic bespoke vibe and menus still warm from the printer. We began with an array of cheeses, apple compote, and olives, then roasted eggplant, zucchini, and bleu cheese, a disappointing mushroom tart, and a pair of desserts: apple crumble topped with vanilla, and something called an Eton mess. Crunchy meringues, chantilly cream, and Amarena cherries in Kirsch syrup. It coulda shoulda been sensational. Double cherries, anyone? Uhh, not so much. The highlight of the meal was the neighboring table of seven middle-aged women, raki healers all, rendezvousing for a couple of days after years of divergent endeavors.
Then back to the room to finish up that blog post.
Our bags repacked with fresh laundry, we thumpety-thumped along the cobblestones a longish block to the garage, loaded up, then ventured out mid-morning with Edinburgh as our objective, by way of St Andrews. Now, truth be told, neither of us holds much interest in the sport of golf, but a half dozen enlightened gotta-do-it-guys coaxed us to visit the origin town of the sport’s 15th century roots. Crossing the gorgeous Tay Road Bridge at Dundee was an unexpected wow, and soon after we cruised the A91 along the southern edge of both the Strathtyrum and Balgove Courses, two of the seven public courses that make up the St Andrews Links Trust. Sweeping wind-shaped fairways, carved into the sandy coastland in the classic links style, fringed only occasionally by ash and beech groves. And nary a golf cart in sight, though plenty of hired caddies hefting their masters’ gear. Late Sunday morning and both courses were packed.
We’d hoped to catch a glimpse of the Old Course, but a traffic jam at the entrance dashed that thought and we continued on to the shopping hub centered on North, South, and Market Streets. A freshly-vacated parking slot greeted us on South, and we stepped out into chilly sunshine a half block from St Andrews Brewing Company, where we both used the facilities, then of course felt obligated to buy a flight of their draughts. Our young Kurt Cobain-resembling bartender was from Corpus Christi, and a theology major in the Divinity School at the college. Nice kid.
Finished with our beers and crisps, the God guy – (Okay, apologies to him, we’re usually so good at remembering names for the blog because one or both of us immediately adds them to our phone notes, but both of us forgot in this case, shame on us, hence . . . .) Anyway, the God guy and a couple of other patrons responded enthusiastically to Nancy’s request for a decent cup of coffee, pointing us a few blocks away to Palompo’s Italian Espresso Bar. (Great story here about that business’s 22-year old founder.) We wandered the area for a bit, skipping around the corner to Market Street, and nosing through several bookstores and eclectic art studios. The ruins in the photo shows Blackfriars Chapel, built in 1525, damaged by fire in 1547, and destroyed in 1559 by a Protestant raid.
We were immediately bummed that a lucky woman had just snagged the last decadent cinnamon roll (I know, I know, if only we’d remembered the God guy’s name), but we droolingly substituted that with an almond crosetto (croissant) and a maritozzi (new one to us: orange-scented bun sweetened with honey, enriched with olive oil, and filled with mascarpone whipped cream!!), and a couple of exceptional Americanos. Everything they offered looked amazing, including their savory sandwiches.
And that was it for St Andrews. Glad we stopped. Hindsightedly thinking we probably should have put more effort into seeing the college and the cathedral, and maybe the Old Course. A pint at the Jigger Inn. No regrets, though, only good intentions for the next time.
Then it was on to Edinburgh. And “The Fringe.”
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.