So, driving in Ireland es no bueno. Or as they say in Irish Gaelic: B’fhéidir gur cheart do Nancy tiomáint. (Maybe Nancy should drive.)
It comes down to three things. Maybe four. Okay, make it five.
1. We landed in a torrential downpour. We’re talking wipers on high . . . for like two hours.
2. All the while, I’m trying to figure out how to both drive from the passenger seat AND on the left side of the road. Which wouldn’t be so bad, except,
3. You thought we had a lot of round-abouts in the Seattle area? Oh, no. Those PNWers don’t know the first thing about round-abouts. They are literally everywhere in the UK. Every highway (what they call motorways) has ‘em, and they vary from three to four to five different roads converging, and of course you’re traveling clockwise, instead of anticlockwise, and your existing mental calculation of right front tire position vs. exterior round-about kerb as you make a left turn into the circular mix . . . yeah, not pretty.
4. And who knew they don’t believe in shoulders in Ireland. Seriously, they rarely exist. Most often not even a painted stripe at the edge of the roadway. Just a way too narrow asphalt lane, then a quite often impenetrable hedgerow or stone wall so close you can touch it. And did I mention, you’re driving on the wrong side of the road?!
5. On top of all that, every single sign in all of Ireland is – by law – written in both English and Irish Gaelic. And those crazy Gaels, they sure know how to jumble up those letters and diacritics. Not that I was trying to actually read the Irish, it simply added a whole nother layer of distraction to the challenge.
Thankfully, I had a savvy navigator beside me – to my left, mind you – to help guide us through the sticky bits.
Okay, I’ll admit, the four hours from Dublin to Galway was a nightmare, certainly exacerbated by our decision to jump off the motorway and enjoy the beauty (and narrow roads) of the countryside, as rain-streaked as it was.
But we made it, parked near our AirBnB, and wandered the West End until we could self check-in to our place. (The wonderful hosts, Ozzie and Mary, live downstairs and we saw them last minute prepping. Little did we know, he was jerry-rigging hoses to provide us bathroom water, since the city had yet to complete a delayed infrastructure project. Whatever he did, it worked, and we could shower, brush, and flush for our full four night stay.)
And what a fabulous four days and nights it was.
Galway
Even though we’d heard the glowing rumors about Galway, we could never have imagined they’d be so fantastically true. We felt in many ways that we were re-experiencing Charleston, but without the humidity and with a different kind of drawl. And the West End is an absolute gem.
Most buildings are 2-3 stories tall with residences on the top two (what the Irish – and all of Europe, apparently – call floors 1 and 2) and various businesses occupying the ground floor (designated “0”). One day we visited a laundromat ensconced between a yoga studio, a mini grocery, a pizza joint, and a consignment boutique. Oh, and three pubs. Or maybe it was seven.
The pubs are everywhere and each is as uniquely the same as the one a few doors down. Same stereotypical Celtic rustic wood construction with a mix of low- and hi-top tables inside, a dozen or more stools at the bar, and plenty of cozy nooks and crannies to hunker down in. Mirrored plaques with clever slogans, glowy lights, and framed photos of past patrons’ or patriarchs’ adorning every wall. All seem to offer basically the same list of macrobrews on tap, with a few nitro and/or cask handles dedicated to the black stuff, Guinness Draught. And a cider or two. (Here we are at such a pub, Tigh Neachtain’s, where niece Katie worked in the summer of 2007.)
And excellent restaurants galore, some that we’d read about and others that we discovered.
Just downstairs from our place was Hooked, a sold-out-every-night mid-scale fish joint, partnered with Ali’s Fish Market next door. The first hour was open for walk-ins (that’s what we did), then at 6pm it’s an hour-plus wait for any hope for a table. We thought our single lightly-breaded cod fillet was just okay, but the fish chowder craveable, as were the mussels – a generous portion with savory sauce (but never enough dipping bread!). A few other eye- and nose-appealing entrees hit the tables around us, and we wished we hadn’t gone straight for the fish ‘n’ chips. Maybe next time.
Monroe’s Pub – a mere 4-minute stroll – became our mainstay, where we spent at least an hour each day or night. Seasoned bar vet Andy perfectly poured our afternoon pints (and HALF-PINTS – c’mon, USA, step it up in that regard!), and that first Monday in town we met Stacy on the stool next to us, a former Medtronic techie, now working part-time for the Galway International Arts Festival.
Oh, you guys didn’t know about it? It’s the city’s biggest two weeks of the year!
Uhh, great planning, Gordo. How’d you let that one slip through the cracks?
As such, every dinner reservation at every restaurant in Galway was booked full, and every pub had lines out the door, both for the drinks and the ubiquitous live music. At 6pm-ish every night the bollards and barricades came out and the streets became flooded with curious tourists and enthusiastic revelers. The drinking age here and in most of Europe is 18+, so we witnessed plenty of youthful antics, and found ourselves grinning and at times shaking our heads at the exuberance of it all. Imagine NOLA’s Bourbon Street or Nashville’s Lower Broadway, but with 300-year old pubs. And being that GIAF was in town, plenty of buskers, jugglers, and fire swallowers. Our favorite was this mini-me marionette violin duo. How cool is that? (And sorry for the construction pounding in the background.)
Dave at Taylor’s Pub pointed us to his by far favorite restaurant, Ruibin’s – though you probably shouldn’t even try to get in this week. But try we did, just as they opened, and the lovely Ebun found us two seats at the bar, where we indulged for the next two hours. Spectacular food, creative cool cocktails, and the team of Dennis, Cassidy, Brian, and Ebun took fabulous care of us. (That’s them lower right, GM Dennis in the middle, Ebun on the right.)
We began with Flaggy Shore oysters topped with apple and horseradish (and on GM Dennis’ recommendation the half-shells topped off with Dúlamán Maritime Gin from the coast of Donegal). Magic in the mouth!! We then enjoyed spinach and butterbean dip with al dente seed crackers (insanely good!); trout crudo with buttermilk, dill, diced apple, and mustard seeds; raw beef carpaccio with wild garlic aioli, and Cáis Na Tíre sheep’s cheese from a small farm in Tipperary shaved on top (OMG! – that’s it there on the upper left with housemade chips), and lamb & chorizo kofte with crispy beans, and green harissa (photo, lower left). Our cocktails were sublime: me an old-fashioned with Dingle single malt, orange, Angostura, and demetura; Nancy an exceptional “filthy martini” with Dingle gin, Noilly Prat vermouth, Riesling pickle, and Guindilla chilli (photo, upper right). And I capped the night with a sipper: Clan Colla Irish Whiskey 11. Memorable night.
Another highlight was our 6-mile morning walk around the Galway Harbour, the Long Walk, then the shore trail through South Park. We passed a few shellfish harvesters during the 2-mile round trip on the Mutton Island Causeway, then hit the trail along Grattan Road past the Famine Ship Memorial, and Lower Salthill to the Ferris Wheel at Leisureland, where we U-turned. We then sat for a spell in sun-warmed Adirondack chairs at Coco Café with our iced Americanos and watched the world go by. The 1.5-mile finish brought us uphill, along Lower Salthill Road, and on the footpaths blanking the network of central Galway canals.
We also joined the arts festival, watching a talented folk trio from Donegal (accordion, flute, and violin) performing reels and jigs and such that afternoon at the Monroe’s upstairs concert venue, interspersed with old-style folk dance called sean nós. I asked an enthusiastic woman in the back of the room for further explanation only to watch her step up on stage a few songs later to dance with her daughter, the accordionist, the apple not falling too far. from the tree.
Walking through Estes park we were approached by an adorable troupe of vacationing étudiants from France, who requested our help with a school project: ask a stranger to say something in French. At there suggestion, I responded with “J’adore les baguettes!” Next came the photo.
Walking through Estes park we were approached by an adorable troupe of vacationing étudiants from France, who requested our help with a school project: ask a stranger to say something in French. At there suggestion, I responded with “J’adore les baguettes!” Next came the photo.
We had originally planned a road trip south to the spectacular must-see Cliffs of Moher, but learned the trails were mostly closed for repair, so took off west instead, along the Wild Atlantic Road – Ireland’s version of the Pacific Coast’s Highway 1. We stopped for a late breakfast in Clifden, sharing a ham & cheese croissant at the Upstairs Downstairs Cafe, and gaining valuable travel insights from the town’s pharmacist. She pointed us to the ethereal Kylemore Abbey, where we stopped for an hour, wishing we’d had more time to soak it in. Were we to do it all over again we’d dedicate an exclusive day for the Abbey and a hike in Connemara National Park.
But this day we had other plans, so continued north to Westport, then west toward Achill Island. On a whim.
Back in March I’d read an article about a 155-year old Irish pub named McLoughlin’s, family owned for all its years, and recently put up for sale. But with a clever catch: only offers from those similarly named would even be considered. Guinness learned of the clever listing and kicked off a marketing campaign in support. So, we ventured out to see what all the fuss was about. The place looks just like its photos, bright yellow trim and a sweeping view across Achill Sound out the window.
A handsome, late-20’s former local sports star worked the bar and two regulars stood at either end, soon joined by a frowning third, this last fellow garbed in oily coveralls and clearly having a bad day. We sat on stools in the midst of them, ordered pints, and stilted, stoic conversation gradually turned warm, and after an hour we were all laughing together and we’d promised to book one guy’s bed and breakfast the next time we came through town.
And though we never did find out the status of the tavern’s sale, we did learn about Keem Beach at the terminus of the roadway and its role in the recent Colin Farrell/Brendan Gleason movie, The Banshees of Inisherin. The 25-kilometer drive to Keem is nothing short of gorgeous. Grand swathes of ragged grasses, dotted with families of the unique Mayo Blackface Mountain sheep. Craggy gray stones pierced the verdant hillsides, hinting at the island’s ancient foundation.
And there at the end of it all was a sand-and-pebble beach, with children wading waist deep in Keem Bay while their elder siblings stood in queue at the Coffee Cup food truck ordering slushies. Kinda surreal, actually. We jockeyed the car around the crowded parking lot, snapped a few photos, then hit the road homeward, dodging raindrops much of the way, and stopping to stretch our legs in Castlebar. A 13-hour day, nine of it on the road, and everything we’d hoped for.
Okay, one of the recently discovered downsides of writing a blog is the realization that it takes a minute or two (or several hundred) to put a post together. And when we’re busy out there enthusiastically living the nomad life, well . . . you get the idea.
So, this one covers our 5 days in Galway, and we’ll post some quickies on Cork and Dublin in the next few days. Then’ll come our three days in England, including our pints and crisps at the 13th century Rose and Crown pub in Ludlow and today’s walk of the ancient Roman walls surrounding Chester.
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.