So, I may have bitten off more than I can chew. (And I can certainly chew my share, as evidenced by the images and specifics of the exceptional dining and drinking establishments we’ve encountered on our travels.)
However, as regards the time required to travel to all the visit-worthy villages and vistas (and breweries and distilleries) – and then the time required to write about it – well, I’ve fallen behind. As such, I intend to spend a chunk of time over the next couple of days hunkered down in our room at the Brewdog Kennels in Aberdeen, Scotland, and our AirBnB in Edinburgh to get caught up. Which means, I hope, three posts: one for our final two days in Ireland, primarily Dublin; then covering our flight to London and the 3-day jaunt via Oxford, Ludlow, Liverpool, and the Lake District’s Keswick, to arrive in Glasgow. The third post will detail our early adventures in the amazing kingdom of Scotland, our several distillery visits, battling the 100mph winds of storm Floris, and some heritage roots hunting in the heart of Speyside.
We hope you’ll enjoy them.
Dublin
After settling in that late Saturday afternoon, a bit weary from our 4-hour drive after touring the Jameson Midleton Distillery in Cork, we struck out on our recon walk, venturing south across the river and into the Temple Bar district. Heeding the warnings of many, we merely poked our heads into the eponymous pub itself, and found it to be exactly as forewarned: elbow to elbow dense with local howlers, punchdrunk uni students, and several bridesmaid parties. The excess spilled out into the cobbled streets, crudely corralled by ill-defined stanchions, though a stoic troop of uniformed police overwatched from a distance, stepping in when necessary to reorient the masses.
After settling in that late Saturday afternoon, a bit weary from our 4-hour drive after touring the Jameson Midleton Distillery in Cork, we struck out on our recon walk, venturing south across the river and into the Temple Bar district. Heeding the warnings of many, we merely poked our heads into the eponymous pub itself, and found it to be exactly as forewarned: elbow to elbow dense with local howlers, punchdrunk uni students, and several bridesmaid parties. The excess spilled out into the cobbled streets, crudely corralled by ill-defined stanchions, though a stoic troop of uniformed police overwatched from distance, stepping in when necessary to reorient the masses.
And from there we wandered, first west to the Porterhouse Temple Bar, where we grabbed a quick bite of excellent fish ‘n’ chips, then south and east toward St. Stephen’s Green. We look-saw The Quays, John Keogh’s, the Hairy Lemon, and finally O’Donaghue’s, an old school pub with live local music every night, and original haunt of the epic Irish folkband, the Dubliners. If interested, you can read about that here. We returned there the following night for music.
The next day meant returning our rental car to the Dublin Airport, then returning the six miles by foot along Swords Road and Drumcondra, dodging the occasional rainbursts by slipping into coffee shops along the route. Enlightenment struck us as we neared Croke Park and waded through some of the same green-and-gold garbed fan crowds we did the night before in Temple Bar, now here at Croke Park for the Gaelic Football All-Ireland Championship, featuring the clubs from Counties Kerry and Donegal. Gaelic is a cool cross-breed of soccer, rugby, and Aussie rules football, and there’s no sport bigger in the country of Ireland. And this was their equivalent of the NFL’s Super Bowl. We watched the match from the Piper’s Corner pub across the street from the Moxy, spur-of-the-moment Kerry loyalists, based on the sentiments of the bar’s patrons.
After freshening up we crossed the river and snagged bar seats at O’Donaghue’s for an hour of cask ales and live music. The tunes began with three guitars, joined after a short while by long-necked mandolin and spoons. The walls of the playing nook are thickly adorned with artwork and photos remembering the Dubliners and its dozen former members.
Dinner that night was Fade Street Social, a popular multi-leveled restaurant, rain showers ushering rooftop diners inside. Glasses of NZ Sauvignon Blanc quenched a quick snack of smoked almonds and curry-spiced lamb samosas with yogurt, cucumber and mint dip. We followed that with a heritage tomato salad topped with whipped goats cheese, croutons, pickled shallots, basil emulsion and lemon dressing, then split two entrees: roasted corn fed chicken breast with braised lettuce, glazed spring peas, roasted mushroom, chervil, tarragon and shaved Parmesan (photo below); and grilled seabream and baby zucchini courgettes with romesco sauce, green olives, roasted artichoke, cherry tomatoes and coriander. And believe it or not, there was still room for chocolate & coffee mousse with coffee ice cream, chocolate and toasted hazelnuts.
The next morning we walked the riverfront and chose Murphy’s Bistro for breakfast, an Irish cafe with an unexpected Turkish flair. Rich and thick Turkish coffee, then authentic menemen and a proper Turkish breakfast of eggs, cheeses, olives, cucumber, potatoes and toast.
Our hearty breakfast provided us the fuel we needed to walk to the Guinness Storehouse for our scheduled tour. We were told that everyone should do the tour once, and we tend to agree with that. Unlike our fascinating tour of the Jameson Midleton distillery, this “experience” leaned heavily on the “show”. Think Las Vegas meets Disneyland. We followed all the arrows and floor graphics through the stages of the brewing process with artificially wind-blown barley stalks, a cascading waterfall, and various depictions of fermenting yeast. Most impressive to me was the stunning exposed structure architecture of the place, but also the brief story of barrel cooperage and the sepia-toned photos of the astonishing mountains of whiskey casks in the Guinness storage yards. And of course, the 360º view from the Gravity Bar on the Storehouse’s 7th floor. And the mechanical fish riding the bicycle. Can’t forget that.
Yes, happy for the visit. Don’t need to do it again. Like the time my friend Thumb Knuckle Chuck convinced me to try Jeppson’s Malört. Yeah, those who know know.
But then came an awesome treat: tickets to Trinity College and the exhibit of the Book of Kells. For those who don’t know the significance, the Book of Kells is “a lavishly decorated manuscript of the four Gospels of the New Testament, created in the late 8th or early 9th century. It is renowned for its intricate and vibrant illustrations, making it a masterpiece of medieval art.” The exhibit is attractively constructed with a comfortable balance of text-heavy information chunks interspersed with gorgeous illustration. We perused our way through at a leisurely pace, fully recognizing the need for several more hours – or days – to absorb its full scope. The library itself and campus are equally impressive.
And I was thrilled to discover there “Brian Boru’s harp”, an early 15th century wire-strung cláirseach, one of the three oldest surviving medieval harps from the region. It was used as a model for both the coat of arms of Ireland and for the trademark of Guinness stout.
We finished the day with a fabulous meal at Jamie Oliver’s Chequer Lane restaurant. Brassy and a bit haute, but surprisingly comfortable. We again sat at the bar where an attentive crew catered to all of our needs, which frankly amounted to We hungry, Feed us. Hence, Chicken Vol au Vent puff pastry, with wild mushrooms, truffle sauce, and pea shoot salad; Sea Bass and prawn served with devil’s sauce and fresh spinach (photo below); and an Irish Summer Salad with charred chicken and bacon skewer, new potatoes, pickled beets, boiled eggs, herbs, and housemade salad cream. And a Warm Peach and Raspberry Crumble with vanilla ice cream to top it off.
And that was Dublin. As always, delicious food and drink, then add in the unique mix of Guinness Storehouse, Book of Kells, and the thrill of a Gaelic football championship victory, and we’ll call it a win.
That also finished our first trip to Ireland. Wow. We completely loved this Land of Saints and Scholars. So, glad we ventured up into Mayo and to Achill Island, though next time we’d schedule more time for the park at Connemara. And we did miss seeing the Cliffs of Moher. In the future, perhaps a visit to Belfast in the North, and maybe the Dingle Peninsula in the south. And Galway. There’s always Galway.
Next stop, London’s Luton airport and a 3-day trip through the west of England.
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.