So, if you’ll think back to our last Scotland post a few weeks ago, we’d survived a gale force windstorm in Inverness, then were skunked by a tribe of elusive bottlenose dolphins at Chanonry Point on the banks of the Moray Firth. Next stop: Gordon country!
To be genealogically honest, I’m solidly multi-ethnic, roughly proportioned into quarters: Mom’s mom Norwegian, Mom’s dad Prussian German (Mennonite), Dad’s mom English, and Dad’s dad Scottish by way of Canada. However, the main reason I was so fired up to visit the land of my father’s father is simply that I’m a Gordon by name. As our exceptional Sixt rental car agent Brad in London put it, he himself being a Scotsman and learning of our upcoming travels there, “With a name like Glenn Gordon, Glenn AND Gordon, now that’s a Scotman’s name. You need to throw that around like you belong there.”
My brother Eric has explored voraciously the branches of our family heritage and through christening and marriage records identified two neighboring Speyside villages as significant: Rothes being the birthplace of both our great great great grandparents, Janet Robertson and Alexander Findlay; and Dufftown in the Mortlach parish where in 1835 they married. Soon after tying the knot they emigrated to Canada, where their daughter Jessie married John A. Gordon. And that, my friends, is where it all began.
Okay, halfway between Rothes and Dufftown lies the tiny burgh of Aberlour, home of the distillery by the same name, and our three nights lodging at the quaint Aberlour Hotel. Our goal for those three days: dig into my Findlay/Robertson roots . . . and sample a lot of Scotch.
Bidding those bashful bottlesnouts a fond farewell, we decided to ramble our route along the southern coast of the Moray Firth through Nairn and Moray Councils. The A96 takes a hard right turn in the village of Nairn, and with nature calling and stomachs grumbling, we found a parking spot on Gordon Street, and walked a half block to the quaint Cafe Nairn. We indulged in craveable bacon & cheese croissants with our coffees and a sweet pastry treat, but were most enthralled by the options for a genuine Scottish breakfast with a pick of up to twelve components. See the list in the photo. We asked our matronly server if anyone ever ordered all 12 and she amusedly responded, “All the time, darling. There’s at least one every morning. Both men and the ladies.”
Moving on, we kept to the A96, then forked left at Forres and regained the coastline at Burghead, where we watched the angry sea for a bit, then continued to the Moray Golf Club – a true links-style course – and on to Lossiemouth, where we stretched our legs at the Harbour. With still some time to spare before hotel check-in, and tempted by the dozen single malt whisky distilleries between here and there, we settled on Speyburn, simply because the roof looked so awesome.
We encountered several of those pagoda-style oast (kiln) buildings among the Speyside distilleries and learned their primary purpose was to enhance the natural air draft necessary to efficiently dry the germinated malt. Invented by architect Charles Doig in the late 19th century, the “Doig Ventilator” creates a vacuum effect, drawing the smoke and hot air from a peat fire up through the malt, which is spread on a mesh floor. That drying process in the oast stops any germination, essential for producing the finished malted barley for whisky.
We weren’t interested in an official tasting, so they handed us off to a skinny young kid in a dress shirt a couple sizes too large, home for the season from “uni” and five days into his summer job. We were his first customers solo, and he blew us away with his depth of knowledge . . . though timidly delivered. And he effectively upsold us on their core whisky, as they were on the verge of diluting their ABV percentages to accommodate an increasingly dominant and demanding Asian clientele. We wish him well.
The Aberlour Hotel sits right on the main road through Charlestown, and we found ourselves relieved I’d found the place online, because there sure ain’t much else in Aberlour-town: the distillery, maybe three restaurants, one coffee shop that never seemed to be open, and then another with delicious food, decent coffee, and an entertaining rugrat clearly at home in his mother’s dining room. We parked the car in back, arriving at the same time as another lodger, the two of us delicately navigating our vehicles into the remaining two spaces. Turns out the occupants hailed from rural Montana by way of South Africa, a young couple and her parents, all in the mining industry. Over the next 2.5 days we bumped into them a half dozen times.
Our afternoon walk retraced our route into town then looped around to a well-worn trail along the River Spey. Pastorally beautiful, the path led us beside a swift flow of sundappled water with open grass fields on the opposite side and low treed hills in the distance. We came out the other end near the Mortlach parish church and cemetery (we’d be visiting those the next day), and we poked our heads in the Aberlour Distillery, too late for a proper tasting, but early enough for a quick nip. Good stuff. I’d been gifted a bottle many years ago, and the taste was shockingly familiar. Unfortunately, our intentions to return never materialized.
After showering off the road miles, we walked to the Mash Tun, the unequivocal best eatery in town (we ate there twice!) for a fantastic dinner of haggis and black pudding with toasted sourdough and caper dressing (don’t believe the negative press: haggis is delicious!), hot smoked salmon nicoise with baby green beans, and seafood gnocchi, stuffed with salmon, scallops, cod, crab, and tiger prawns, with spinach, leek, peas, and a parsley cream sauce. Yes, that gnocchi was as awesome as it sounds.
For dessert we had our first cranachan, a traditional parfait-ish Scottish dessert of cream and fresh seasonal raspberries, bolstered by Stalla Dhu whisky, honey, and toasted Scottish oats. More, please. And on another night, perhaps in the company of my fellas back home, we might have scooched over to the outdoor smoking tent for several scotches and a fine cigar.
We rose early, navigated the rat maze of hotel hallways to make our exit, and drove into Dufftown, renowned as the malt whiskey capital of the world, due to the number of distilleries situated nearby. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of sausage muffins and coffee at the Cozy Coo (that last word meaning cow, and specifically that Highland breed of shaggy-haired cattle endemic to Scotland, and the oldest registered breed in the world, first appearing in records from the 6th century in the Outer Hebrides). And at the center of Dufftown stands its Clock Tower, built in 1839 from local grey granite with pink granite dressings, and originally a jail. As my ancestors on the Findlay side were masons by trade, there’s a solid chance they contributed to its construction.
Next door to the Cozy Coo sits WhiskyBrother & Co., an outstanding spirits shop with an incredible array of Scotland’s whisky, and on this day helmed by a gent named Josh Edge, recently hired there, but many years steeped in the history and indulgence in all things Scotch whisky. He even co-hosts an enjoyable podcast called the Whisky Pilgrims. We listened to a couple of episodes while driving and got a kick out of the content almost as much as the cool accents. Josh spent a half hour stuffing our brains with all things whisky and we left with several airplane samples of his favorite offerings.
From there we returned to Aberlour and walked a quarter mile to the Mortlach parish church where my ancestors Janet Robertson and Alexander Findlay were married. We meandered through the hundreds of tombstones, many crumbling and barely legible, and were shocked by how many Gordons we encountered. And Robertsons. And Findlays. I doubt the Gordons had any blood connection to my family, but my brother Eric believes that Jessie Findlay’s husband John A. Gordon might also have roots in Moray County, so who knows . . .
And as we exited the cemetery we walked past the Mortlach Distillery, originally (and illicitly) established in 1823, and the oldest of the renowned Dufftown distilleries, and a favorite of my brother. They don’t offer tastings, so we sought those at a sister distillery later that afternoon.
We had a tasting date at the Glenfiddich Distillery, but stopped first at its whisky-sister Balvenie Castle a stone’s throw away. It looked promising from the outside – time-eroded majesty – but with little dignity left in its 800-year old bones, now sight-polluted and obscured by chain-link fencing and yellow caution tape, protecting its sparse visitors from harm. Sad.
Glenfiddich, on the other hand, was incredibly awesome! Tons of moolah spent well. Perfectly manicured lawns, freshly painted, white-trimmed buildings, casual pathways throughout the grounds. You can spend a half day there wandering. We secured a small table in their tourist-packed tasting room – good thing we had a reservation – and chose our particular flight from an array of choices. As with most industries these days, the whisky world is now dominated by a handful of parent companies, each owning several, if not dozens, of individual distilleries. At a tasting, you can generally sample offerings from all of that parent company’s affiliates, in this case William Grant & Sons. We included an Aerstone, crafted on the Ayrshire coast of the Scottish Lowlands, and tinged with a hint of sea salt on the finish.
Oh, and the current chairman of William Grant & Sons? That’s him in the photo. No relation. Unfortunately.
Then came the first of two distillery highlights of our time in Speyside. On “whisky brother” Josh Edge’s definitive recommendation we drove to the nearby and quite young (at only 10 years old) Ballindalloch Distillery, unique in their old school, manual processing methods and minimal digital systems in the crafting of their spirits. In the course of the tour we noticed dozens of the 200+ blue-painted valves and levers, each of them requiring a perfectly-timed crank, by hand. We also learned that despite the distillery’s youthful appearance, the Ballindalloch estate itself has been home to the Macpherson and Grant families since 1546 – a few decades shy of 500 years. Our guide was 23-year old Aidan Dunn, who’d already spent 2 years training in Hong Kong, and is now their International Sales Executive. His family has been in the whisky industry for seven generations, originally establishing the Ben Nevis Distillery in 1825. Aidan was pleased to know we’d stopped there on our drive to Inverness. (We didn’t admit, however, it was only for a potty break.) Great kid. Great whisky. One of the few we’ve toted with us to bring back home to the U.S.
We’d hoped for dinner at the Spey Inn in Craigellachie, but after waiting a bit for a table, we walked across the street to the Highlander Inn, where a young Osakan waiter seated us. When I asked what brought him to Scotland, he explained his 2-year apprenticeship in Speyside to learn all he could about single malt whisky, knowledge he’d take back with him to Japan to use in the burgeoning whisky industry there. Our dinner of a shared smoked salmon and caper salad, and a not so smashing smash burger, became secondary to a cool conversation with a family at the neighboring table, in town for a wedding. Daughter, granddaughter, and a life-seasoned couple from the Shetland Islands, the northernmost region of the UK, and at a higher latitude than even Oslo and Bergen, Norway. He worked with sheep, and was happy to tell us all about it.
A long couple of days and with lots to tell. Probably enough for one blog post. We’ll pick up on our last day in Speyside and travels to Aberdeen in the next day or so. In other words,
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.