So, before we get into the details of our soul-stimulating journey into the Scottish Highlands and the country’s northernmost city, Inverness, a quick revisit to Glasgow and an Oops, I forgot to mention of its vibrant urban mural scene. By last count, more than 30 wall-sized, both avant-garde and commissioned, art pieces are displayed throughout the city. For a culturally-fun half day wander, download one of the available maps and set out walking and watching.
From our Moxy hotel room, we looked out to the mural on the left, and we passed the other on our downhill return from the Glasgow Cathedral.
(Thanks, Kim McVeigh, for reminding me of these.)
With a 250-mile travel Sunday ahead of us – and three or four distillery stops along the way – we breakfasted early at the Moxy, then hit the road for Inverness, which included 25 miles along the western edge of the renowned-in-song Loch Lomond. As we skirted the lake, with no choice but the low road, Nancy kept her eyes peeled for turnouts to walk its bonnie banks and bloggable signage for proof of our presence. See both below.
As we scooched down the trail to the shore we crossed paths with tent campers on the beach, leashed dogs in tow, equipment sogged from a night of scattered showers. Smiles beaming. And why not; just look at that view.
By this point – near two weeks now in the land of left lane driving – my brain and bodily reflexes had adapted, and the roundabouts came quite easily and Nancy’s preemptive “Kerb!”s infrequent. We meandered through the tri-villages Arrochar, Tarbet and Ardlui, then flanked and traversed and spanned the literally awesome River and Hamlet and Bridge of Awe, then left-turned at Connel to arrive at the seaport of Oban (OH-bin) and its eponymous distillery. Super cute ferry town, nicknamed the Gateway to the Isles, meaning Inner Hebrides.
We wandered the docks for a minute then ascended the few steps into the whiskymaker’s tasting room, paying 30 British pounds ($40) for a four 25ml flight of the Distillers Editions of Oban (dry, oak spice, pepper) and three of its sister distilleries: Talisker (sea spray, peat, sweet sherry), Caol Ila (smoke, creamy porridge, figs), and Lagavulin (coffee, vanilla, smoky, barbeque). As we experienced at each of the distilleries we visited in Scotland, tastings came with a flask of room temp still water and glass pipette for adding water to “open up” the whisky’s flavor. Here’s a quick video as to why that’s done.
Is it Whisky or Whiskey?
You may have noticed that my mentions of whiskey in our Ireland posts were spelled with the letter ‘e’, but whisky without an ‘e’ in the Scotland posts. What’s with that?
Well, it all has to do with the original Scots and Irish Gaelic derivations of the word Uisge beatha, meaning Water of Life, with each variation being carried through to modern use. And as a result of Irish immigration to America in the 18th century, American ‘whiskey’ is spelled with an e.
All you really need to remember is the Irish & Americans spell it whiskey; every other distilling country in the world spells it whisky.
Nuff said. (Or is it enuff said?)
We left Oban and drove 80 minutes up the road along the western shore of Loch Linnhe for a gander at the town of Fort Williams and the Ben Nevis Distillery at the base of its namesake, the highest mountain in the UK at 4,413 feet. Beinn is Gaelic for mountain, and Scots refer to any local largest mountain as The Ben. (As we Seattleites do when referencing Mount Rainier, as in The clouds have cleared up today, the Mountain’s out.) No whisky samples there, but the room was full of hike- and bike-garbed adventurers returned from a morning or a day or a week on The Ben or either of the major walk/cycleways trailheaded at Fort Williams: the West Highland Way to Milngavie (154km) and the Great Glen Way to Inverness (124km).
Another hour from there and we entered the strikingly impressive grounds of the Dalwhinnie Distillery, only to discover their not quite as impressive tasting tent. No matter. We enjoyed a 3-sample flight, paired with local chocolates – game-changer!! – and chatted with the young guide before her next tour, then continued on to our waypoint for the next two nights, Inverness.
Another hour from there and we entered the strikingly impressive grounds of the Dalwhinnie Distillery, only to discover their not quite as impressive tasting tent. No matter. We enjoyed a 3-sample flight, paired with local chocolates – game-changer!! – and chatted with the young guide before her next tour, then continued on to our waypoint for the next two nights, Inverness.
Those of you familiar with that neck of the Scottish woods are surely thinking, Hold on, you guys! By right-forking to Dalwhinnie you totally missed your chance to see Loch Ness and its elusive Nessie. Yeah, but remember, we still had the next day, right? (More on that in a minute.)
Now, one of my co-pilot’s areas of responsibility is tracking our upcoming weather conditions, and she’d been mentioning Floris for two days, as the offshore storm rolled eastward across the Atlantic and aimed to strike the western coast of Scotland with steady winds of 60mph and gusts up to 95mph. Inverness lay dead center in its path and the storm would begin in the wee hours Monday and last throughout the day.
We settled into the sprawling streetfront Andross Glencairn Guest House, three detached buildings in the Ballifeary district, west of the River Ness. We noticed sandbags prepped for later distribution and the front desk clerk asked if we’d parked our car under any trees. After settling in, we ambled along the Ness Walk and across the Ness Bridge into the amenities-rich side of town, downing a draft and some decent live music at the Highlander Bar, then strategically snagging a patio fringe two-top at MacGregor’s, with Sunday Session live trad music in the background and abuzz with people of every sort (photo below). And what proved to be the favorite fish and chips of the whole UK and Ireland.
The weather began its turn on our quickened walk home and we made the mistake of stopping for an inedible dessert at a raved about restaurant, then followed our noses to Bici’s Pizza next door for a whiff and a chat with the owner, who told us about dolphins.
As predicted, Storm Floris struck at dawn. The bangs and howling at our window clued us in, so we bundled up in a few layers and our new rain jackets – purchased just for the chance of inclement Scottish weather – cinched the hoods tight around our faces, and leaned into the roiling wet for 3 blocks to the local bakery and coffee shop, The Bakery. We sat at the window to watch the chaos, lots of drenched and short-breathed folks slipping in, as we had done only moments before. Great coffee and tasty pastries, the perfect compliment to the bluster outside.
Now, we’ve both been in high winds before. Alaska, Chicago, even Seattle at times. But never this strong (80+ mph), while also laced with pelting raindrops. Several times we were brick wall-stopped in our tracks. Exciting for a minute, but mostly it sucked. And any desire to visit Loch Ness or the fishing village of Ullapool or really anywhere else except our hotel room was out the window.
After our brief and welcome refuge, we staggered back to the Andross Glencairn to binge several episodes of the UK and Ireland-only for now Prime series, The Assassin, with Freddie Highmore in a wonderfully off-type role. And by mid-afternoon Floris was but a memory and we sauntered triumphantly to join other survivors at the way cool Walrus & Corkscrew wine bar we’d spotted the night before. Warm vibe, delicious wine, and an exceptional charcuterie board with the best Scotch egg we’ve ever experienced.
Then guitar and fiddle trad tunes at the Highlander again, with a shared steak and ale pie and chicken wings, unexpectedly original with Frank’s hot sauce.
And that was Inverness. (Though, before we departed town for the righteous realm of Speyside whisky, there’s that unfinished business about the dolphins.)
So, in our chat with the owner of Bibi’s Pizza, he asked if we’d been out to the point to see the dolphins. Which lit up the eyes of my former Seaworld-employed dolphin-whisperer wife and led to our half hour side trip the next morning to Chanonry Point, infamous for its resident school of bottlenose dolphins. You can read about them here. And pay special attention to the paragraph explaining their heightened presence at the rising tide, when bait fish are prevalent. That would be the opposite tide as when we were there. Though we did see something that looked like a porpoise snout disappear beneath the water. And I’m pretty sure it was a dolphin, though my frantically snapped photo to the right didn’t capture it clearly.
You be the judge.
We’ll be in touch.
So, in our chat with the owner of Bibi’s Pizza, he asked if we’d been out to the point to see the dolphins. Which lit up the eyes of my former Seaworld-employed dolphin-whisperer wife and led to our half hour side trip the next morning to Chanonry Point, infamous for its resident school of bottlenose dolphins. You can read about them here.
And pay special attention to the paragraph explaining their heightened presence at the rising tide, when bait fish are prevalent. That would be the opposite tide as when we were there. Though we did see something that looked like a porpoise snout disappear beneath the water. And I’m pretty sure it was a bottlenose dolphin, though my frantically snapped photo didn’t capture it clearly.
You be the judge.
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.