So, as I begin writing this post we’re on a train from Florence, Italy, to the neighboring Tuscan city of Siena, which we’ll call home for the next 10 days. It’s been quite a whirlwind the last two weeks and we’ve surely got some Nomad Life 180 catching up to do, yet we also don’t want to get too far behind.
Here’s the fix – we think: take care of Scotland in chunks – quick, short posts about each of our 2-3 day stops in Glasgow, Inverness, Aberlour, and Aberdeen; and then a final summary post for our 5 days in Edinburgh. But now the twist: we’ll also post our two recent short stay (just passing through) experiences in Rome and Florence. They may be jumbled up a bit chronologically, but no doubt you’ll be able to figure it out. The goal is that by mid-Siena we’ll be pretty close to current. Having said that, we reserve the right to become so deliciously immersed in Sienese culture that we drag our toes a few days longer. We’ll see what happens.
After our idyllic mini-adventure in England’s Lake District we crossed into Scotland and arrived in Glasgow mid-afternoon and checked into the Moxy Merchant City. In concept, and for their funky decor, we kinda dig this stripped-down brand of Marriott accommodations, but the quite young front desk/cocktail bar artistes have displayed plenty of ink & alloy, but sometimes also a lack of customer focus. Or maybe it’s just us? In any case, we checked in, changed clothes, and went out to explore.
First stop, Tennent Brewing for a beer. As in Tennent’s Lager, the second most popular beverage in the Scotland. Not adult beverage, but overall beverage. Ahead of Coco-Cola, and just behind . . . you guessed it . . . IRN-BRU. Yep, Irn-Bru. Pronounced Iron-Brew, a carbonated citrusy soft drink described as Tutti Frutti, bubble gum, cream soda, and even having an undertone of iron or rust that has been referred to as ‘girders’. That according to the Wiki’s. It’s been Scotland’s numero uno beverage consistently for more than a century. And what did we think of it? Well, we kept telling ourselves to pick up a can of the country’s “Other National Drink”, but kept forgetting. Our bad. And top of the To-Do list for next time.
A beer geek factoid about Tennett’s
In 1556, near the Glasgow Cathedral, Robert Tennent made beer on the banks of the Molendinar Burn, a small tributary of the River Clyde. Two centuries on (in 1740) his ancestors Hugh and Robert Tennett founded a commercial brewery there called Drygate, which later expanded and the name changed to Wellgate Brewing, the business passing down to sons and grandsons. By the mid-19th century, now branded J. & R. Tennent, they were the world’s largest exporter of bottled beer. G-g-g-g-g-great grandson Hugh (lots of Hugh’s in that genealogy) took charge of the company in 1884 and the next year produced the first Tennett’s Lager. As commercial lagers were novel to the brewing world, Tennett’s achieved additional firsts: first draught lager in 1924, first canned lager in 1935, and the first keg lager in 1963.
In the last five decades Tennent has bounced around via various mergers and acquisitions, the last in 2009 by the C&C group, who six years later opened a new craft brewery nostalgically named Drygate on the fringe of Tennett Brewing’s facility. We ventured there next – a long two block walk – and sampled a flight of Drygate’s offerings.
After showers we walked to the City Centre and the tourist-packed Buchanan Street pedestrian zone, found Gordon Street (the first of a billion namesake encounters the next two weeks), tracked down the infamous Duke Wellington conehead statue, then downed a half pint of real ale at Horseshoe Bar (with one of the longest bartops in the world at 104’ 3”).
Hungry by that point, we reversed course for Spanish tapas at the authentic-vibed and tightly-packed Cafe Andaluca. Started with Pimientos De Padrón (Europe’s equivalent to shishitos, though often blistered); Baked aubergine with Montbrù Garrotxa goats’ cheese, tomato sofrito and honey (mouth-drippingly good); their Albóndingas, crafted with spiced pork and beef and Manchego cheese; Seared king scallops, in a basil and leek cream sauce; and finally Slow-cooked lamb tagine with Spanish spices, sultana raisins, and apricots.
To bring us down from that emotional high we climbed the hill to the sprawling Necropolis (cemetery), east of Glasgow Cathedral, and with panoramic views of the city. The one blemish in the vista . . . scaffolding encased the cathedral’s steeple as it undergoes repairs, including replacing a corroded center rod and a rotting cross tree. Typical 50,000-day tune-up stuff.
To bring us down from that emotional high we climbed the hill to the sprawling Necropolis (cemetery), east of Glawgow Cathedral, and with panoramic views of the city. The one blemish in the vista . . . scaffolding encased the cathedral’s steeple as it undergoes repairs, including replacing a corroded center rod and a rotting cross tree. Typical 50,000-day tune-up stuff.
Descending the sacred hill, we followed the sparse late morning crowd through the cathedral’s interior chambers, gaping and gawping at the stained glass windows and late 12th century Gothic architecture. The evolving story of the church’s glasswork is a fascinating study, from the original Medieval windows, destroyed in the Protestant reformation of the 1560s, to 400 years of clear glass panes, to the controversial and short-lived “Munich glass”, blackened, deteriorated, and eventually retired, save for six remaining lancet windows like the example here, depicting Gideon.
Every other window in the cathedral has been installed over the last 90 years, the most recent created this year by emerging Glaswegian artist Talia Blatt,(photo, bottom left).
After showers and leg-resting, we taxied to the popular West End for beers, Nocellara olives, and an overly huge bowl of Oaxacan roasted peanuts at the Stravaigin Cafè Bar, the name being an old Scots word meaning ‘to wander aimlessly with intent’. Nice, right?
After showers and leg-resting, we taxied to the popular West End for beers, Nocellara olives, and an overly huge bowl of Oaxacan roasted peanuts at the Stravaigin Cafè Bar, the name being an old Scots word meaning ‘to wander aimlessly with intent’. Nice, right?
Then half beers at the iconic Innis & Gunn (rare in the U.S., but well worth seeking out), more halves at Brel (crazy busy with a cool outdoor patio with grassy sitting slope – photo, upper left), and finally we dined at Òran Mór, after a humorously tedious 15-minute wait being chatted at by a world-traveling seaman with a 99% unrecognizable accent who clearly loved life and the sound of his own voice. A wild, convoluted venue with restaurant, bar, and auditorium music venue. Venison salami with poached peaches and asparagus; and a Black Crowdie (cheese) tart with fig and truffle honey. Both were more than satisfying. Shown together below.
We finished the night with a serendipitous encounter at the Three Judges pub, when our selfie attempt led to an assist from two local septuagenarians, Gerry, he on the left with the brogue so gnarly we could barely understand him, and Rory, who invited us to his native home on the remote Isle of Barra. “The plane actually lands on the beach, you know. And the MacNeil Clan Chief, he lives in a castle on the wee isle in the bay. Let me show you photos.” An hour of stories and plentiful laughs later, we cabbed home and packed for our voyage to Inverness the next morning.
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
Comment *
I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.