So, an early flight from Dublin put us into London’s Luton airport just before 9am, and after a suggested – never should have listened to her – 1,000 yard trudge with our luggage uphill to the Sitz rental car center, we drove away in an electric blue Alfa Romeo Tonale graciously upgraded by superstar agent Brad, who also gave us tips on some places to visit in his homeland Scotland.
Unlike our downpour driving debut in Dublin, we eased smoothly out of west London and backroaded our way to Oxford and its universities, but megacrowds everywhere tempered our interest and we continued along the eastern fringe of the Cotswolds and its rolling hills and golden-hued limestone villages. A coworker of friend Matt Minton lauds the Cotswold Distillery as crafting the best dry gin on the planet, so we sought to affirm that claim with a wee tasting, and then purchased a few 50mL minis to bring home. By then we were starving and stopped at The Bell in Alderminster along the River Stour for cask ales, tasty BBQ wings, and (new to us) carrot and red onion bhaji with coconut yoghurt and mango chutney (photo below). Crunchy deliciousness.
Ludlow
Our lodging that Tuesday night was in Ludlow, so we continued on our off-the-beaten path for another 90 minutes through the meandering, oft-narrow, and sometimes white-knuckling backroads of Shropshire to the Feathers Hotel and our room for the night. Built in 1619 and converted to a hotel 50 years later, the inn reflects its Tudor years well, with hefty dark beams, creaky wooden floors, and a half-timbered exterior facade. Carefully-preserved moulded glass with original mullions and transoms are set with cast iron diamond glazing.
When asked for any decent pubs in town, the concierge directed us a half-block south to Ye Olde Bull Ring Tavern, (photos top) with roots back to the year 1365 – gawk – and from there to The Rose and Crown (photos bottom), hidden away within an olden days courtyard, and dating another two centuries earlier, all the way to 1102. Its rear stone wall boasts a 13th century mullioned window with stained glass trefoil. The Rose is one of the fifty independent taphouses affiliated with Joule’s Brewing, originating from the nearby town of Stone, where ales have been brewed since the 16th century by Augustinian Monks. The Joule’s “Red Cross’ trademark is the sixth oldest beer trademark in the world after the Bass Red Triangle, Bass Diamond, Guinness Harp, Whitbread Unicorn and Berry Brothers Barrel.
After half-pours and crisps (and plenty of gawking) at each of the ancient establishments, we returned to the Feathers for a satisfying tapas-ish dinner of mixed olives, heritage carrots, a goat’s cheese, fig and thyme tart with mustard emulsion, chicory and walnut salad; and a chicken, apricot and pancetta terrine with piccalilli vegetables, sourdough croutes, and pea shoot salad.
The sticky toffee pudding dessert with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream came recommended by the restaurant manager Henry, a great guy who filled in while server Talullah was busy with other guests. Amusing story about her – and perhaps it stems from both her age (early 20’s) and living in the English countryside – but she was completely unfamiliar with her celebrity namesake, actress Tallulah Bankhead. I showed her photos on my phone.
The sticky toffee pudding dessert with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream came recommended by the restaurant manager Henry, a great guy who filled in while server Talullah was busy with other guests. Amusing story about her – and perhaps it stems from both her age (early 20’s) and living in the English countryside – but she was completely unfamiliar with her celebrity namesake, actress Tallulah Bankhead. I showed her photos on my phone.
As we got up to leave, Henry asked us if we planned to visit the Ludlow Castle the next day, a ruined medieval fortification built in 1066 at the time of the Norman Conquest. We hadn’t, simply because yours truly hadn’t done his homework, so he suggested we stop in his own hometown of Chester, a few minutes outside of our Liverpool destination. That walled city features the oldest, longest, and most complete city fortifications in Britain, with some sections dating back almost 2,000 years. And so we did.
We arrived in Chester 11 o’clock-ish and grabbed half-pours and tourist counsel from the bartender at the Dublin Packet, a sports bar on the fringe of the wall. He directed us down a few cobblestone pathways and into the main city square, where we passed under the Eastgate Clock, regarded by some to be the second most photographed clock in the UK, and added to the gate in 1897 to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. We mounted the wall there, then walked its three kilometer length, reading with interest the historical plaques positioned along the way. We especially enjoyed the vistas over the River Dee, the long stretch beside the Chester Racecourse, established in 1539 and (Guinness Book officially) the world’s oldest operational racecourse, the high walls above the Shropshire Union Canal, and the former cathedral, now St John the Baptist Church (photo, bottom left). What a wonderful happenstance find. Thanks, Henry. (And for anyone further interested, here’s an annotated map of the wall.)
The Liverpool Aloft hotel shocked us, built as it is into the former Royal Insurance Building. Huge and gorgeous high-ceilinged lobby, glossy marbled floors, and a glitzy bar surrounded by très chic furnishings. And we snagged an app-metered parking space exactly in front of the hotel, so no short hikes to and from the car. Walked around a bit, avoiding megaphone-shouting local protesters, and stopped for appetizers at a newer gastropub, the Old Bank named obviously for its former tenant’s business endeavors, and featuring more gigantor ceilings, marble pillars, and mirror-finish floors. I couldn’t resist the mini homemade sausage rolls (Pardon me, would you have any Colman’s English Mustard?), and the salt and pepper dry-rubbed wings were exquisite. We stuck around for the first few songs by Ben Burke, the featured humpday guitarist. Good stuff.
Maintaining our current theme, we stopped by the oldest pub in Liverpool, The Ye Hole in Ye Wall, dating back to 1726, then ended the night with our gratis lobby bar cocktails at the Aloft. And we loaded up on cans of water. Yep, you read that right. All of the UK and Ireland is hyper-green, so minimal one-use plastic containers. Aluminium’s okay, hence cans of agua. And to be honest, it’s taking a bit of getting used to.
The next morning we drove down to the waterfront to meet the Beatles, walking along the Pier Head past the Mersey ferry dock to the statue. Then back on the road, stopping only for our first (and last) Costa Coffee at a gas station en route.
I read somewhere once that humans can recognize more than 300 different shades of the color green, and I’m confident we witnessed at least half of them as we wended our way north and into England’s Lake District. Vast fields of crops, often dotted with the soft white puffs of sheep, stretched away on both sides of the motorway, and everywhere the the grid of darker green hedgerows, patchwork quilting the countryside. Nancy took landscape photos through the window glass for a while before realizing the images couldn’t do it justice. And as we descended into the Lake District, the beauty only amplified.
There’s clearly one core purpose for the quaint village of Keswick (pronounced Kessick, as is the case with many silent W’s in the UK); and that’s to leave town ASAP and head out into the wild. Hiking is huge there, as is cycling and watersports, like canoeing, kayaking, paddleboarding, and sailing. We arrived an hour early, so stopped by the Keswick Laundry Services to throw in a load, then parked on the street a block away from the Babbling Brook Guesthouse and brought in our bags. Host Paul provided the full rundown of the place, and our extended chat revealed his long list of personal physical outdoor accomplishments, including the local Bob Graham Round, a 24-hour max fell run, traversing 42 major hills, covering 66 miles, with 26,900 feet of ascent. H might also be a mountaineer, as hinted by the clever wall ornamants decorating the guesthouse.
After retrieving our laundry we stopped for pints and crisps at the Keswick Brewing Company’s Fox Tap taproom, staffed that afternoon by two wonderful middle-aged chaps with broad knowledge of Scottish must do’s and a recommendation we purchase a supply of Smidge, the UK’s best midge repellent. (Think no-see-um gnats in abundance.) We followed the Fox Tap with a mediocre Indian dinner, then finished the night with dessert at the delightful Fellpack. (Ahh, if only we’d known!) Baked vanilla cheesecake with biscoff crumb and sour cherry compote = awesome. Dessert wine for she, a smoky Old-fashioned for me, and a warm and memorable chat with manager Catherine. We’d dine again there in a heartbeat.
We caught the first passenger ferry of the morning at 9:45 and chugged across to the western shore of Derwentwater Lake, everyone else fully garbed to hike the half- and full-day Catbells and Newland Horseshoe trails high above the lake. We hung a quick left turn and walked 4 miles along the relatively flat perimeter trail. The terrain reminded us both of the high lakes areas of the North Cascades or British Columbia. Spectacular. Our timing proved perfect to meet the ferry at a southern dock as it circumnavigated the shore, and a light rain met us just as we returned to our car and our drive north to Scotland.
Okay, Keswick and the Lake Country. Add ‘em to your when-in-England list. Same with the Babbling Brook and Fellpack. Especially Fellpack. We’re so bummed we missed dinner there.
And that took care of our short-but-sweet 3-day transit through England. Next stop Glasgow. We’ll cover that next, along with Inverness, Speyside, and Aberdeen.
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.