So, Asheville . . .
It took us a minute, but this quirky, eclectic, still Helene-suffering Appalachian town is growing on us. We arrived a week ago on Tuesday, driving from Charlotte (see sidebar), and have been running on all cylinders since. Knowing that our longtime best friends – they stood up for us at our 1998 elopement – Graeme & Alison would join us beginning Saturday lunch, we had three full days and an evening to self-explore, and we certainly made the best of it.
Our ubercool AirBnB is a 2nd floor loft in the heart of downtown, with the busy High Five Coffee shop downstairs, and the Rankin Vault dive bar a couple doors down. The narrow-slat hardwood floor here is 100 years old, and groans like tired bones, but the hair salon directly below us assured us they can’t hear the creaks. We changed out of our road clothes and stepped out to get the lay of the Asheville land.
We did the same in Charleston two weeks ago, a preliminary 2-3 mile stroll through the local environs, scoping out the businesses, the architecture, the people. Getting a sense of the mood and vibe of the place. We’ve learned that such a ground-based reconnoiter grants us a foundation for planning further explorations: how much time to linger close to home base, which neighborhood eateries and drinkeries are must-dos, where we might catch some live music.
Well, in the first two minutes we steered around a klatch of opioid-stooped obliviants, skirted a jumble of rotten fruit-ripe garbage cans, and stepped through a cloying cloud of cannabis smoke mixed with that of rank tobacco. Yikes? We didn’t mind the abundance of skin ink nor face metal, but some sour glances and glazy stares definitely swung our mood.
*heavy sigh*
As most remember, a mere ten months ago Hurricane Helene wiped out Western North Carolina, with Asheville feeling the brunt of it. Two separate rivers rose to 26-ish feet, 15+ over flood level, causing 43 deaths in Asheville’s Buncombe County. The thriving River Arts District along the French Broad River was basically erased from the map, displacing more than 300 artists and their studios. We spoke with one painter, now selling his art at Hi-Wire Brewing, who lost his shop and $45,000 of artwork and supplies overnight.
And we’ve all heard the nation’s substance use disorder crisis has disproportionately impacted Appalachia, with overdose-related mortality rates more than 60% higher than the rest of the country. Then there’s the 4,000 student UNC-Asheville a mile north of town. And dozens of wealthy outsiders, enthralled by the Blue Ridge beauty here, throwing that whole gentrification wrench into the mix.
All of the above makes for a populace in flux and a community re-determining just what it’s going to be. The reality of which smacked us in the face that first late afternoon. But chatting with 24-year old, face-tattooed bartender Christian over our splitsies Vault Burger later that night helped us regain our bearings a bit. Good kid. He reminded me a lot of the hundreds of other post-college searchers I’ve met over the years, figuring out life and their place in it, making ends meet, testing the goods and the bads in search of a path that best fits.
And it was smooth sailing from there.
Wednesday was the long walk, similar in ways to that first trek in Charleston, and equally as warm with low-90’s temps, but not quite the humidity. We walked down to the French Broad and the River Arts. And frankly, if you didn’t know what was there before, it looks much like any other defunct industrial zone with a few weathered brick buildings and cracked concrete parking lots. That artist we met told us that 70% of all the structures were effectively scraped off the earth there. Several empty and fractured studios still stand, their mud-washed logos barely visible. Epitaphs on river-eroded stones.
We traversed the bridge over the French Broad and right-turned to New Belgium Brewing, an enormous ½ million barrel production facility, staffed by enormously friendly personnel, and serving enormously delicious beer. You know Fat Tire and Voodoo Ranger. Well, they have that and a dozen more, fresh out of the tank. As we did with most every other business entity we met for the week, we asked how things were going post-Helene, and learned they’d fared better than most.
Another mile along the river path brought us to a right turn and hamstring-burning climb up aptly-named Hill Road – huff, puff – and a return through downtown to the homestead. Nice workout, a better understanding of Helene’s impact, and again, an all too familiar close-up to the sketchy bit realities of the area’s rampant opioid problem.
That evening began our multi-night string of outstanding dinners, this one at Table. A two-minute skip from our loft and we were seated at the bar, efficiently cared for by newbie Hana and old school Marissa. An order of Heidi’s Bread & cultured butter led to Basil Strangolapreti with tomato butter & pecorino, Beets & Peaches with Irish cheddar and mostarda (brilliant! – photo, above left), Lamb & Beef Kefte Kebabs with yoghurt, and Evan’s Tomatoes with za’atar and leeks. (We learned Evan is a local produce grower who became disillusioned by the quality of local veggies and decided to do something about it. We found his product at several quality restaurants in the city. Exceptionally good.) For dessert we enjoyed a lemon curd tart with blueberries and scoops of dark chocolate sorbet. Yep! (Photo, below left) An extra highlight was asking the bar manager for North Carolina-style BBQ recommendations, which led us to late Sunday afternoon’s indulgence at The Hound Lounge and R & D BBQ.
That evening began our multi-night string of outstanding dinners, this one at Table. A two-minute skip from our loft and we were seated at the bar, efficiently cared for by newbie Hana and old school Marissa. An order of Heidi’s Bread & cultured butter led to Basil Strangolapreti with tomato butter & pecorino, Beets & Peaches with Irish cheddar and mostarda (brilliant! – photo, above left), Lamb & Beef Kefte Kebabs with yoghurt, and Evan’s Tomatoes with za’atar and leeks. (We learned Evan is a local produce grower who became disillusioned by the quality of local veggies and decided to do something about it. We found his product at several quality restaurants in the city. Exceptionally good.) For dessert we enjoyed a lemon curd tart with blueberries and scoops of dark chocolate sorbet. Yep! (Photo, below left) An extra highlight was asking the bar manager for North Carolina-style BBQ recommendations, which led us to late Sunday afternoon’s indulgence at The Hound Lounge and R & D BBQ.
A leisurely Thursday morning brought us to the near 100-year old Grove Arcade, intentionally built in 1929 as a genuine shopping mall: 18 retail stores, a dozen restaurants, luxury apartments, and arts & crafts vendors galore. We explored awhile, then quenched our efforts at Bebettes: A New Orleans Coffeehouse with iced cafes au lait and the best beignets we’ve enjoyed outside of NOLA. Three hours of shop browsing, followed by cooling showers – and a sorry-not-a-chance- turn away from Cúrate – and we were settled into bar seats at Luminosa. Their catch slogan is Modern-Appalachian Meets Italian, Wood-Fired Tradition, and it was all of that and then some.
Outstanding bartenders Miranda and Caesar served up Green tiger cucumbers with tulsi buds, tetragonia, ramp, and radish; charred zucchini, scallion yogurt, crispy potato, and nasturtium (photo, top right); Mezzaluna with chanterelle mushrooms, datterini tomato, and pecorino; and a 10-inch wood-fired pizza with mortadella, peach, smoked mozzarella, and pickled red onion. Several items were flamed on their immense wood-burning hearth. The tiramisu with espresso-soaked housemade lady fingers, mascarpone mousse, salted chocolate crumb, and chocolate sauce capped the night.
We’d been told by several locals to check out the up and coming West Asheville, so on Friday late morning we fired up the rental car and ventured out to the eclectic Odd’s Cafe at that area’s western end. After securing iced Americanos and downing a blueberry scone, we fast-sauntered the sidewalk, a mile out and back, checking out what West Ashe had to offer. We pegged Nine Mile West (Caribbean-inspired, vegetarian-friendly), Sunny Pointe Cafe (line out the door), and Cellarest Brew Project beckoned us to return. An early, almost-forgettable dinner at Wicked Weed Brewing closed the day, and a finale cocktail on the Rooftop of the Flatiron Hotel closed the night.
As lovers (and me a self-described connoisseur) of fine craft beer, Burial Brewing had been on the radar for a while, so its selection as a rendezvous and rally point by Graeme & Alison sat perfectly well with both of us. And don’t let the quirky names like Dissonant Chorus of Unwavering Souls and Most of My Dreams Are Unabashedly Mundane and the Rest Are Contrived Compositions of Meaninglessness fool you . . . these are damn fine brews. We spent a couple of hours there, reacquainting ourselves with the G-man’s nephew Ryan, his wife Lindsay, and young son Finnigan – we’d first met them in Austin at the eclipse a year ago April – and catching up with our oldest friends. We’re still getting used to the new Graeme a bit, as he continues to reinvent himself after a traumatic brain injury suffered several years ago. He’s still the nicest person on the planet, but now even more so. You can read about his injury and extraordinary recovery here in Alison’s beautifully written recounting. She penned a pretty fantastic suspense thriller, as well.
Nancy and I finished our Saturday at the highly recommended Spanish tapas bar Cúrate. Again, we bellied up to the bar, this one a beehive of activity. From our vantage point we could view the full length of the kitchen with a dozen chefs performing their individual duties and the recently imported Spanish head honcho expediting it all. Seasoned pro bartendress Denby coached us through a magnificent meal of fried eggplant rounds with local honey and rosemary; lightly cured trout in tomato fresco, coquillo olives, grilled scallions and lemon; warm Galician-style octopus with sea salt, olive oil, pimentón, and Yukon Gold puree; charcoal grilled Iberico pork with jasper roasted seasonal vegetables; and lamb skewers marinated in Spicewalla Moorish spices, pickled cucumber and onion. The inevitable dessert was Nancy’s choice: poached peaches with almond crumble, mascarpone mousse, anise hyssop, peach sorbet, and shards of fried oreillettes. Yeah, I know. Lucky us. (And that’s why we walk 5 miles every morning!)
We finished the weekend with breakfast at Table’s sister breakfast place, All Day Darling, then the four of us motored for a stretch on the Blue Ridge Parkway, turning around at the Looking Glass Rock Overlook. Outside of movies like Last of the Mohicans, this was my first encounter with this spectacular “mountain” range, the moderately high elevations so very different from the Cascades back in the Pacific Northwest. The density of foliage here is incredible. We’re excited for our few hour trek along the northern 100 miles of the Parkway tomorrow.
On our return we stopped at Southern Highland Craft Guild and Folk Art Center, and spent an hour inside savoring the exceptional craftsmanship of the region’s artisans. Love me those Appalachian sweeper brooms. And my late mom would have loved the quilts and crochetwork, though I’m confident that on their travels, she and her husband Chris spent many an hour at this very folk art center.
A detour on the way back into town brought us to the at-one-time magnificent Grove Park Inn, now an Omni brand hotel, and IMHO beginning to show its century of years. Well worth visiting, though, and I can’t remember ever seeing a fireplace that enormous. My buddy Graeme here is 6-foot-6.
Now, if you’ll remember back, you already know our dinner stop this Sunday: the aforementioned NC-style BBQ at the Hound Lounge, a sprawling side-of-the-road eatery built in an old Greyhound Bus station. And my oh my, that vinegar and mustard-sauced brisket and pulled pork went down well. Not to mention the potato salad and baked beans. A sudden, heavy downpour forced us inside, but we were just finishing our eats anyway, so didn’t mind the disruption. And as the night was still pretty young, we drove back downtown, and stopped for dessert and coffee drinks at Crave Dessert Bar, a mere block from our AirBnB loft.
And then it was Monday, and a day for repeats. More beignets and cafes au lait. More brews at New Belgium and Burial Beer. And another incredible dinner at Luminosa, this time with our good friends. Thank you, Graeme and Alison, for your generous treat. And servers David and Dan for treating us with such care and respect. You guys were awesome.
Early Tuesday we’ll hit the road for Pittsburgh and favorite youngest daughter Kylene and her family, with a wandering stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway, beginning just north of Roanoke and meandering 110 miles to the Rockfish Gap Entrance Station, and another 10 miles to an overnight in Staunton.
It’s been an interesting two weeks, Charleston and Asheville. The first we’d return to in a heartbeat. The neighborhood and its people, who welcomed us into their home. The food, of course, and the personalities that went with it. The history, of which we barely cracked the surface. And we never even got to the beaches! Or the islands. And there are a few folks we’d love to see again.
Asheville . . . it’s probably a one and done for us. We enjoyed some fantastic food, drank a few insanely delicious beers, and in hindsight, coulda maybe shoulda coughed up the entry fees for the Biltmore Estate and the Botanical Gardens, though both aren’t really our thing. Ryan-Lindsay-Finnigan . . . we’ll see you again.
Hang in there, Asheville. We wish you well on your road to recovery.
We’ll be in touch.
Drank a Punk IPA on the top of a hotel in Bangkok!
Indeed, they are everywhere!
I would still be walking from the Firenze train station to your first airbnb!!!!
I’m sooo sorry you had to suffer through the gelato tastings to find the One. Somebody had to do it!
I totally agree about the sangiovese grape. One of my favorite wines is a Super Tuscan. Mainly made with indigenous grapes blended with non-indigenous vines like Cab Sauv and merlot. One of the top wines in the world! And a bargain price.
In Nancy and your honor, I made a Tuscan chicken dish the other day. Except it didn’t look like the food you pictured….and didn’t taste like it, I’m sure!
Enjoying your trip with you!
Hey Jim, love that you’re following along, and appreciate your comments. The Tuscan wines are truly a joy, though we did enjoy a Puglian red this evening while in Vieste. Awesome town. You’d love it!! A festival tonight with music or comedy every night a stone’s throw away.
Ah, the Pantheon, one of my favorite buildings, especially considering its age.
Yes, we’ll be back in Florence in Wednesday and Thursday next week. We’ll tour the Pantheon then.
Okay! I will have the house tagliere board for two! For myself! And 2 glasses of wine??? You can’t fool me.
Just read an article about the area where Nancy’s family lived. An area known for its unique buildings with a purpose to evade taxes!
Trullo buildings in Alberobello! Also, now B and B’s. May your safe journeys continue!
Ahh, the Trulli of Alberobello. We won’t be lodging in one, but plan to spend a morning or afternoon visiting Alberobello. Thanks again for your comments, Jim. We head to Montecino and Montepulciano today. Puglia in a week.
We loved Dublin (actually ALL of Ireland!) but didn’t have enough time there.
The library was amazing as well as the Book of Kells but I see the books are all gone! Must be renovating.
Big fan of Jamie…..sooo jealous!
Totally agree on Guinness tour.
They’re restoring (un-dusting) the books in the library at Trinity College; only about 10% on display. It’ll be a several-year project.
Glenn, not surprisingly your lilting eloquence embellishes the accompanying pictorial fare and invites one to pour a wee dram with which to enjoy both!
My hope has been to capture the spirit and flavor of the places and people we encounter on our journey. I’m glad you’re enjoying it.
Wow, that all sounds so lovely, except for the driving part! That would make me so nervous.
I’m really not trying to dominate the comment section but………
Where you are brings back sooo many memories of Derry (wife, not place!). She, also, was my navigator and her job was to pick the ivy off the passenger side mirror because I was so close to those damned rock walls avoiding a lorry coming at me @ 100Km/hr on a 1 & 1/2 lane road!
We went to Connemara National Park, climbed up most of the way, and went to visit the great love story that Kylemore Abbey represents.
The walled garden was amazing, too.
I have watched the very perplexing movie “The Banshees of Inisherin”
I agree, Galway is awesome!! We did indeed have a brew or two @ Monroe’s!
Keep your comments coming, my friend. We love having you along for the ride.
I love vicariously eating and sight-seeing with you two! And I’m glad I’m not splitting the bill!
Asheville and the Blue ridge Parkway were the some of the highlights on my trips around there. We, also, skipped the Biltmore tour. $50-head to see someone else’s ostentatiousness!
And I now have to put Curate on my list…..love me some Spanish tapas!
No doubt, our joy of good food has us reevaluating the dining budget! 😉
Have been hearing a lot lately about Charleston’s foodie scene!!!
I want a raclette burger and order me the trout with crawfish at Vern’s!
And be careful driving out there. Might get a little wet!
Stepping out of Vern’s last night it was dumping!! Thankfully they loaned us an umbrella for the short walk home, but with sandals . . . pretty sloppy. And yes, both of those food items were incredible.
Excellent post! I love how the architecture helps avoid the taxman… brilliant!
What a fun day!!! And then, to a Spanish restaurant serving some of my favorite tapas and vino!!
A new post after just 24 hours? You spoil us, and set a high bar for the detailed story-telling of your adventures! If the rest of your trip is half as enjoyable as your first day out to be, you’re in for a treat. Love you both and enjoy the humidity (and everything else, of course).
Hola to you two!!
A word of caution, kinda. Watch out for Travis Decker in Leavenworth!
Not that I have vast knowledge for packing for long trips, I would think taking along some “tradeable” clothing you can bargain with! Like a nice BBB shirt in exchange for a nice Italian sweater! And save room for souvenirs and fun stuff! No one will care if you wear the same shirt three days in a row, except Nancy!!
Also, I can partner with you about losing family. It certainly speeds up as we get older.
Yeah, definitely one of the downsides of aging!
What a great surprise it was to have you and Nancy swing by Green Lake, looking forward to hosting you both in Tucson next year! I had forgotten to mention during our conversation that there are two new Matador restaurants in S. Carolina if you are feeling nostalgic. Thanks again and safe travels, already excited to follow along!
Thanks for the heads up re. the Matadors. I see it’s actually a restaurant with a separate “Mezcaleria by Matador” next door. It’s 1.5 miles from our AirBnB. We’ll definitely go there. Glad to know you’ll be following along on our travels. Take care.
Wow! I bet you’re both getting excited for your continuing adventures. Love reading about them. We miss you guys!
So excited! Already loving our “vacationing” in our hometown, and chomping at the bit to truly hit the road. Miss you two, as well. Glad you’re following along. Hope your summer’s starting off great.
Whooohoo! You’re on your way! 👏🏼🌟
Looks like you two are loving and living life well. Love the narratives and the photos
Thanks, Sandy. Yes, life’s awesome.
(And Kirkland is just so cool, as I’m sure you remember.)
We love Kirkland, especially Isarn Thai 🤤🤤🤤 One of my favorite Thai restaurants! It looks like your adventures are off to a great start. Enjoy your time with family and friends!
Thanks, Kelsey. Isarn Thai is one of our daughter Kylene’s favorites, as well.
Hope you and Scott are enjoying your early summer.
Godspeed my friends. See you soon, hopefully it will involve libations and excellent conversation. Miss you guys!
So very excited for you two and looking forward to being on your adventure with you! I must be on your roster twice as I received 2 email notifications. Enjoy every minute and I hope to see you at one of your visits to BB!
Jealous…can’t wait to see and hear all about it
Bon voyage, and we’ll see you in Asheville!
I could not be more excited for you both! Have an amazing time in WA (wish I was joining for graduation) and on your stateside portion of this adventure. Can’t wait to see you in the Burgh in a few months. Cheers to new adventures!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience, Best of luck Glenn and Nancy. Safe travels🙏🌺
Thanks, Al. Glad you’ll be following our adventure.
OMG this sounds absolutely amazing!!!!!!
Thanks, Lisa. See you soon!
Hello Nancy and Glenn!
What an exercise in travel planning and what a tremendously exciting and interesting journey it will be.
From reading your update, I’m not clear on the exact date you will be departing the US and/or Mexico and when you are scheduled to return. Could you confirm, please.
Are you going to be measured for your dress Gordon kilt while in Edinburgh?
Looking forward to ‘sharing ‘ your adventure.
Love, Angela
Safe travel and dr8nk a few for me!
Thanks, Michele. See you at the shop in a couple of weeks.
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I think I already signed up but…maybe not? Anyway, should be signed up now
You’re golden.
Add me to mailing list pls!
You’re good to go.